Ancient Pheneus

Ancient Pheneus in mountainous Corinthia, was excavated between 1958-1961, when the building complex of the Sanctuary of Asclepius was found.

According to a myth, demigod Hercules, who had blood ties with the area, got in a fight with Apollo over the tripod of Delphi, which he stole away and brought to Pheneus. The Pheneans accepted the tripod, but then believed that Apollo took revenge by flooding their flatland. In order to save them, Hercules built katavothres (subterranean channels). According to another myth, these katavothres were gateways to Hades. Goddess Demeter descended through these katavothres to the netherworld, looking for Persephone. This myth is probably the reason why the cult of Demeter Kidaria was established in the region, which, according to Pausanias, resembled the Eleusinian Mysteries. Pheneus was the birthplace of Hermes, worshipped as a local deity.  

The region of Pheneus, at an altitude of about 770m, was inhabited from the Neolithic Age up to Roman times. The first settlement was built by Pelasgians. Around 1900 BC, it was inhabited by Arcadians. In 1500 BC, Achaeans created the Mycenaean centre of Pheneus, and, according to Homer, they fought in the Trojan War with sixty warriors, led by Arcadian king Agathenor. 

The archaeological site: 
Ancient Pheneus was excavated between 1958-1961, when the building complex of the Sanctuary of Asclepius was found. A rectangular pedestal also came to light, with two enormous feet in sandals. Behind this, a female marble head was found, believed to belong to goddess Hygieia. 

In 2011, a five-year research programme began, with the cooperation of the Ephorate of Antiquities of Corinthia and the Austrian Archaeological Institute in Athens. A wall was discovered, along the entire north slope of the acropolis, with a length of 230 m and maximum preserved height of 4.50 m. The fortification is further fortified by four semicircular towers. A sanctuary, dedicated to a female deity was discovered on the eastern terrace of the acropolis hill. Archaeologists believe that there were two construction phases - one in the Archaic era and one in Classical Antiquity. 
Many mobile findings came to light, such as ex-votos, clay female figurines and busts, brooches, bronze garment decoration, etc. 
(Source: culture.gov.gr) 

The little Archaeological Museum of Pheneus in Archaia Pheneos (Ancient Pheneus) village (Kalyvia) houses sculptures, mosaics and vessels found in the excavations. The head of Hygieia’s statue is also exhibited there. 

Did you know that

On the plateau of Pheneus, there are several villages, Archaia Pheneos, Mosia, Mesino, Panorama, with the Byzantine church of Saint Demetrios, Amygdalia, Achladees, Mati, Tarsos, etc. Goura is the biggest among them.

Especially interesting are the texts about the region of Pheneus, written by the Swiss philhellene François-Frédéric Boissonnas, who was a traveller and a photographer. He visited Greece a lot in the early 20th century, and he has provided us with many valuable information on the monuments and everyday life of people at the time.    

Check out nearby attractions, such as the lake Doksa with the church of Saint George, Our Lady of the Rock, Zireia, etc. 

Read about the products of the Pheneos flatland. 

For details about the natural environment on the plateau, see here.

A journey through mythology. Mythology tells us that the demigod Hercules was born in the area and was worshipped here. The story goes that he fell out with Apollo over the Delphic Tripod. Apparently, Hercules grabbed the tripod when he was in Delphi visiting the oracle, and brought it down to ancient Pheneos. Not surprisingly, this didn’t go down too well – after all, the Delphic Tripod played a pretty important role in Delphi as the priestess used to sit on it when delivering the word of the oracle. The locals were happy to accept the tripod at first, but when things started going wrong and their plain was flooded they decided that Apollo was taking revenge. However, having your own local demigod has its advantages and Hercules saved the day by building a canal to drain the waters and stop the flooding.

There is also another mythological explanation for the sinkholes. According to this second version they are the sunken entrances to the kingdom of Hades and it was here that the goddess Demeter descended into the Underworld in search of her daughter Persephone. This may be why the worship of Kidaria Demeter, which according to the traveller Pausanias had similarities with the Eleusinian Mysteries, flourished in the area.
People have been living here since Neolithic times. The first settlement was created by the Pelasgians, the pre-Greek inhabitants of the area. Nearly 4000 years ago in 1,900 BC, the Arcadians settled here and by 1,500 BC the Mycenaean settlement of Pheneos had taken shape.  According to Homer, the town sent sixty warriors to fight in the Trojan War.

The fertile flatland

The fertile flatland of Pheneos looks like a gigantic carpet spread out in the sun.
On its field, covering thousands of stremmas, the farmers produce delicious beans and fava beans, along with other products that are worth trying and buying.

After a two-hour drive from Corinth, you reach the plateau of Pheneos, on the borders of Corinthia, Achaia and Arcadia, embraced by the mountains Dourdouvana, Zireia, Saita and Mavrovouni. You have left the stone-built houses of Kastania behind, which is built at an altitude of 1000m, amid fir trees, chestnut trees and walnut trees. You admire the majestic view from Diaselo, and you start descending: The flatland of Pheneos looks like a gigantic carpet spread out in the sun, with the organised square and rectangular fields stretching over thousands of stremmas. 

What you see hasn’t been always like that. Occasionally, the entire flatland turned into a lake covering up to 194,000 stremmas. The reason for that? The rivers Olvios and Doksas. Their waters, unable to find an outlet, flooded the plateau. Over the years, on its south edges below Saitas, katavothres formed (large natural chasms), that solved the problem of water accumulation, which now emptied into Ladon. However, when they were blocked by earthquakes, debris, and other things, 
the area turned again into a swamp, and finally into a lake. 

In 1897, the katavothres opened and allowed the area to dry. Thus, the locals started cultivating the large areas that nature so generously offered them. 

Fava beans and beans of Pheneos. The plentiful production of beans, chickling vetch (after it has been properly processed, it gives fava beans), and secondarily, lentils, cereal, potatoes, are the rewards for the farmers’ efforts in the area of Pheneos for many years now. The special climate conditions, such as the altitude and the soil composition, along with the cultivation methods, result in excellent products, of high nutritive value, marketed all over Greece. 

“Fava of Pheneos”, produced by Lathyrus ochrus, has a protected geographical indication since 2018. It’s very tasty, it boils and becomes mushy easily. It is rich in vegetable proteins and carbohydrates. 

Similarly certified are the “Vanilla beans of Pheneos”, with the white colour and the sweet taste. On the fields of Pheneos, they also cultivate giant beans.

Did you know that

The products of Pheneos are available in all grocery shops of the area, along with fresh meat, cheese, and pasta. You can taste them at the tavernas in the villages.

Read about ancient Pheneus and the villages of the area.

Location

Find the destination on the interactive map below.